In a decisive move that strengthens its position in fine watchmaking, Chanel has acquired a 30% minority stake in Kross Manufacture, a Swiss-based producer known for its cutting-edge watchmaking components and complex movements. This strategic investment reflects Chanel’s long-term vision to deepen its technical capabilities and reinforce its independence in the world of haute horlogerie.
The deal, confirmed by Kross founder Marco Tedeschi, marks another significant step in Chanel’s continued expansion within the Swiss watchmaking landscape. By aligning with a respected independent manufacturer, Chanel secures direct access to advanced production infrastructure and engineering expertise—both essential for sustaining creative freedom and technical excellence in luxury watchmaking.
A Strategy Focused on Manufacturing, Not Acquisition
Unlike typical brand acquisitions, Chanel’s 30% stake in Kross Manufacture is not about ownership control—it’s about building long-term production capacity. Chanel has made it clear that this partnership is designed to strengthen the supply chain and deepen access to horological know-how without compromising independence on either side.
Over the last decade, Chanel has consistently invested in the foundations of fine watchmaking. Previous moves include acquiring stakes in movement manufacturer Kenissi and precision parts producer F.P. Journe. Together, these partnerships have positioned Chanel as more than a fashion brand dabbling in watches—it is now a credible watchmaker with its own manufacturing backbone and technical infrastructure.
Inside Kross Manufacture
Kross Manufacture is the technical arm behind the well-known Kross Studio brand, famous for its futuristic, central tourbillon timepieces inspired by cinematic universes such as Star Wars and Harry Potter. Founded in 2020 by Marco Tedeschi, the company quickly distinguished itself by combining bold design with sophisticated mechanical innovation.
Located near Nyon, Switzerland, Kross operates as a fully independent manufacture specializing in high-complexity watch movements and bespoke components. Although relatively small—with a team of about 15 specialists—its in-house capabilities rival larger workshops. From technical prototyping and micro-engineering to CNC machining and movement assembly, the manufacture offers a complete ecosystem for independent and luxury brands alike.
To formalize this investment, Kross Manufacture was recently established as a separate legal entity, distinct from the Kross Studio brand. This structure allows the manufacture to operate autonomously, providing its services to a wide range of clients beyond its in-house creations while maintaining creative synergy with Kross Studio.
About Marco Tedeschi: The Vision Behind Kross
At the helm of Kross Manufacture is Marco Tedeschi, an industry veteran whose career spans leadership roles at Hublot and RJ Watches (formerly Romain Jerome). Known for combining creative direction with industrial know-how, Tedeschi has guided Kross through rapid development—establishing a facility capable of delivering both limited-edition artistry and technical innovation.
His dual focus on mechanical complexity and narrative design has allowed Kross to carve a distinct identity within the crowded field of independent watchmaking. Tedeschi’s leadership style emphasizes collaboration, precision, and technological experimentation—values that align closely with Chanel’s own approach to craftsmanship.
What Sets Kross Manufacture Apart
Kross Manufacture specializes in low-volume, high-precision production. Unlike industrial-scale facilities, its focus is on complex, custom-built movements and decorative finishing. The workshop handles everything from movement prototyping and micro-component machining to assembly and finishing under one roof, ensuring full control over every stage of production.
Its compact size allows for flexibility that major groups cannot replicate. Independent brands often turn to Kross for components that require a high degree of innovation, including unconventional gear train layouts, custom escapements, and artistic modules that integrate seamlessly with modern designs.
This collaborative model has made Kross Manufacture a quiet powerhouse in the background of modern independent horology—a space where artisanal craftsmanship meets advanced engineering. For Chanel, this relationship offers an opportunity to collaborate on complex mechanisms while maintaining the creative identity of its collections.
Chanel’s Evolving Watchmaking Ecosystem
Chanel’s relationship with the world of watchmaking has evolved steadily since the launch of the Première and J12 collections. While these designs began as style icons, the company has since expanded its scope into serious horology. Today, Chanel’s watch division operates more like a technical atelier than a fashion accessory department.
The company’s investment in Kenissi, which produces the automatic movements for the J12, Boy·Friend, and Monsieur lines, laid the groundwork for a vertically integrated model. Now, with its stake in Kross Manufacture, Chanel strengthens its network of independent technical partners—ensuring not only movement reliability but also creative engineering for future complications.
These strategic relationships reflect Chanel’s broader philosophy: owning or investing in the technical expertise behind its products, rather than outsourcing it. This ensures continuity, quality control, and access to innovation—key factors in maintaining credibility among collectors and connoisseurs.
Collaborative Projects in Development
Although details remain confidential, insiders indicate that Chanel and Kross Manufacture are already working together on an exclusive watchmaking project that combines advanced mechanical architecture with distinctive Chanel design language. The collaboration is expected to blend Kross’s modern engineering capabilities with Chanel’s aesthetic refinement and precision finishing.
Given Kross Manufacture’s experience with complex central tourbillons and creative movement layouts, industry observers speculate that the joint project could introduce a new horological complication or reinterpret one of Chanel’s signature models in a more technical form. Whatever the result, the partnership is positioned to make a strong statement about Chanel’s long-term ambitions in watchmaking.
The Broader Implications for the Watch Industry
This partnership highlights a growing trend among major luxury houses—moving upstream into production and investing directly in skilled manufacturers rather than simply purchasing finished products. It is a strategic response to both supply chain pressures and the increasing importance of authenticity in the luxury segment.
In the current landscape, collectors value transparency, provenance, and genuine in-house expertise. Chanel’s stake in Kross Manufacture signals that it intends to participate in shaping the next generation of independent manufacturing rather than merely sourcing from it. This forward-looking approach ensures that the brand remains relevant in an era when craftsmanship and technical depth matter more than ever.
Preserving Independence While Building Strength
One of the most notable aspects of this deal is that Kross Manufacture will remain independent. Chanel’s stake is a minority position, ensuring that the Swiss company continues to serve a range of clients while expanding its capacity and resources. This balance benefits both parties—Kross gains financial stability and industry prestige, while Chanel secures access to innovation without imposing creative control.
This model mirrors similar arrangements in the watch industry where heritage brands invest in or collaborate with small manufactures to secure long-term technical partnerships. It’s a relationship built on mutual respect, where shared expertise enriches both sides of the equation.
Conclusion: A Vision for the Future of Haute Horlogerie
Chanel’s investment in Kross Manufacture represents far more than a financial transaction—it is a statement of intent. By supporting an independent manufacturer known for mechanical creativity and precision engineering, Chanel is positioning itself as a modern custodian of horological excellence.
As the boundaries between fashion and fine watchmaking continue to blur, Chanel’s strategic investments demonstrate that the brand’s commitment to craftsmanship is not decorative but structural. This latest partnership ensures that Chanel can continue to create exceptional timepieces that combine artistic design with technical mastery—hallmarks of true haute horlogerie.
Looking ahead, this collaboration is likely to yield exciting results. It reaffirms that the future of luxury watchmaking lies in partnerships that unite creativity, technical capability, and independent spirit—a philosophy that Chanel and Kross Manufacture both embody with precision and purpose.
